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Stunning mountains


Austerdalsisen and the ocean, seen from RV17

Dry fish

Tørrfisk (dry cod)

We rode from Tromsø to Brensholmen, took the summer ferry to Botnhamn, rode from north to the southern tip of Senja and caught the ferry from Skrolsvik to Harstad. A very nice day with very little rain. Some, but not much.

Dinner with friends in Kanebogen outside Harstad. Did you know there are 800 suicides in Norway every year, and 10.000 attempts. Not nice on a populations of a mere five millions. It is so bad that the main bridge in Tromsø has been fitted with a ugly inward-pointing fence that is virtually suicide-safe.

Leif-Hugo serves the best there is: Dry cod (tørrfisk) with beer.  The fish, here you see two, has been cut along the spine and then dried.  In Lofoten, obviously.  A hammer is needed to make it soft.

Next day we rode from Harstad to Lødingen, the ferry to Bognes, and then to Fauske. Then along Helgeland to Ørnes.

We met friends and enjoy wine as the sun does not set; midnight sun, you know.

It is hard to choose: Senja or Helgeland.  Both are stunning.  But the glaciers on Helgeland might just tip the scale.  And, lo and behold, a day with no rain!

A GS and some DOT-4

Amore Resaturant Veikro

Yesterday I felt the clutch slipping a tiny little bit.  I thought I had been sloppy by not letting the lever all the way out.

Today started with finding a wet spot under the bike.  It is not oil, and it smells like DOT-4.  Brakes or clutch.  The slipping clutch was not accident, it was a symptom.  The most likely cause is  that the slave cylinder on the clutch is leaking.

When there is a leak it is a question of time before the clutch becomes inoperable due to lack of pressure.  Also, the fluid destroys the clutch itself.

The plan was to spend a day on Helgeland but with fluid dripping from the bike we decided to head over to the main traffic artery just in case; we took E6 from Mo i Rana.

The nearest BMW dealer is in Trondheim, and we made it there.  We have used half a liter of DOT-4 so far.

A new slave cylinder is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.  I hope to be able to replace it, spray brake cleaner on the clutch, and ride on.  I will not have the clutch replaced here, in the most expensive country on the continent.

Amore, Mosjøen

Amore Resaturant Veikro

Food-vise the trip has not been too bad, at least in the private sector, so to speak.  We have had reindeer, whale, elk (moose?) and naturally fish.  And generous servings of wine.

We have not had anything but “coffee”.

The bottom was reached at Amore Restaurant Veikro in Mosjøen.  A sign on the door said “Ny stekte vafler hverdag”, which we though was incorrect Norwegian for “Fresh vaffel every day”.  It turned out to be (even more) incorrect Norwegian for “Fresh vaffel on workdays”.  With a Venetian gondolier as logo, in Mosjøen, what can you expect?

The building, however, is very nice.


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